Things to Do in Banana Islands

Dublin Island village walks

The footpath from the main dock slips past pastel houses where women pound cassava in courtyards heavy with bougainvillea. Syncopated thuds from mortars mix with gospel drifting from tin-roof churches. Kids appear to practice English on passing visitors. The village ends abruptly at a headland where century-old mango trees drop fruit that splats purple against weathered tombstones.

Ricketts Island snorkeling

The reef off Ricketts drops like an underwater cliff. Parrotfish the color of Fanta bottles graze coral while you float above. Sea urchins cluster in crevices like black dahlias. A hawksbill turtle may cruise past to inspect you. The water is that impossible tropical blue that turns sunscreen ghost-white against your skin.

Slave castle ruins exploration

Stone walls of the British slave castle rise from strangler fig roots like broken teeth. Iron rings still bolt into coral blocks where chains once clanked. Inside smells of damp earth and bat guano. Outside you can trace worn steps where captives descended to waiting canoes. It is surprisingly quiet. Only the wind hisses through casuarina pines and coconuts occasionally crack to the ground.

Beach camping under palms

The Atlantic-side sand squeaks beneath your feet, fine as sifted flour. Fall asleep to waves that sound like distant traffic. Wake to fishermen dragging catamarans through morning mist that tastes of salt and woodsmoke. Having an entire beach to yourself makes instant coffee taste like champagne.

Island hopping by fishing boat

The pirogues wear liveried colors, royal blue hulls with sunflower yellow trim. Diesel engines cough blue smoke as you putter between islands. Diesel lingers on your lips while salt spray mists your sunglasses. You pass tiny coves where herons stand like gray statues. Captains know which beaches have the best coconut palms for shade and which snorkeling spots tourists have not found.

Dublin Island's guesthouses let you fall asleep to generator hum and wake to roosters.

Ricketts Island eco-lodge with its compost toilets and solar showers

Beach camping on the Atlantic side where palm fronds serve as natural tent stakes.

Homestays with island families who'll insist you try their palm wine

The converted slave castle quarters if you don't mind slightly haunted vibes

Day trips only - many visitors base in Freetown and boat over